From Snake Oil to Squeeze Bottle: The Stranger-Than-Fiction Story of Ketchup
From Snake Oil to Squeeze Bottle: The Stranger-Than-Fiction Story of Ketchup
Take a second the next time you reach for the ketchup bottle. Really look at it. That familiar red squeeze bottle — the one that shows up at every cookout, diner counter, and school cafeteria in America — has a past that is almost impossible to believe. Because before ketchup was a condiment, it was a cure. And before it was a cure, it was a fermented fish sauce that had nothing to do with tomatoes at all.
This is one of those origin stories where every chapter is more unexpected than the last.
It Started With Fish, Not Tomatoes
The word "ketchup" almost certainly traces back to a sauce called kê-tsiap — a pungent, fermented condiment made from fish entrails, brine, and spices that was widely used in coastal regions of southern China and Southeast Asia as far back as the 17th century. Fishermen and traders relied on it to preserve flavor on long voyages, and it spread steadily through regional trade routes.
British and Dutch sailors picked it up during colonial-era voyages through the region and brought versions of it back to Europe sometime in the late 1600s and early 1700s. The English took a particular liking to it, though they quickly started improvising with whatever ingredients were available at home — mushrooms, anchovies, walnuts, and oysters all became the base for various "ketchups" throughout the 18th century. Tomatoes didn't enter the picture for another century, and even then, the transition was anything but straightforward.
Tomatoes were viewed with deep suspicion in early America. Many colonists believed they were poisonous — a reasonable concern given that the tomato plant belongs to the nightshade family — and avoided them altogether. It took decades of slow cultural acceptance before tomato-based recipes started appearing in American cookbooks, with one of the earliest recorded tomato ketchup recipes dating to around 1812.
The Doctor Who Prescribed Ketchup
Here is where the story takes its strangest detour. In the 1830s, an Ohio physician named John Cook Bennett began making a bold and widely publicized claim: tomatoes could cure almost anything. Liver disease. Indigestion. Diarrhea. Bilious attacks. Bennett wrote about his theories in newspapers and lectured across the country, insisting that the tomato was one of the most powerful medicinal plants on earth.
The medical establishment was skeptical, but the public was intrigued. By the early 1840s, "tomato pills" — concentrated extracts sold as patent medicine — were being marketed across the United States. Pharmacists stocked them. Newspapers ran advertisements. People genuinely believed they were buying medicine when they picked up a jar of tomato compound at the drugstore.
The craze didn't last. Medical scrutiny eventually caught up with the claims, and the tomato-as-medicine movement quietly collapsed. But something important had happened in the process: Americans had been introduced, en masse, to the idea of the tomato as something worth consuming. The cultural resistance had softened. The table was set, so to speak.
Henry Heinz and the Bottle That Changed Everything
Fast-forward to 1876. A Pittsburgh businessman named Henry John Heinz had already tried — and failed — in the food business once before, losing a horseradish venture to bankruptcy. He came back with a new company and a simple but revolutionary idea: sell condiments in clear glass bottles so customers could see exactly what they were buying.
This was not a small thing. At the time, most commercially produced food was sold in opaque containers, and adulteration was rampant. Consumers had no way of knowing what fillers or preservatives manufacturers were using. Heinz's transparent bottle was a trust signal before anyone had language for it.
His tomato ketchup — thick, sweet, and shelf-stable — became the flagship product of what would eventually become the H.J. Heinz Company. He obsessed over the recipe's consistency, the bottle's design, and the manufacturing process. By the early 20th century, Heinz was producing millions of bottles a year, and ketchup had completed its unlikely transformation from fermented fish sauce to all-American staple.
The famous "57 Varieties" slogan, by the way, was also a Heinz invention — and a fictional one at that. He reportedly chose the number because he liked how it sounded, not because it reflected any actual product count.
Why a Bottle of Ketchup Is Actually a History Lesson
What makes ketchup such a fascinating traced-back story is how many different forces had to align for it to exist in the form we know today. Ancient preservation techniques from Southeast Asian fishing communities. Colonial-era trade networks that carried flavor across oceans. A 19th-century doctor's dubious medical theories that accidentally normalized a feared ingredient. And an entrepreneur's instinct to build consumer trust through transparency.
No single person invented ketchup. No single moment produced it. It accumulated — layer by layer, continent by continent, century by century — until it landed in a plastic squeeze bottle on the table at your local diner.
The next time you're shaking the bottle to get things moving, maybe that's worth a thought. What looks like the simplest condiment in the world is actually one of the longest, strangest journeys in American food history.